If you stayed a year you could not see all there is to see, do all there is to do. Avignon is a place of art, history, music, theater, buildings, squares and ruins ancient and medieval, surrounded by the most pleasurable countryside in France. If you want the spirit of Provence, allow some time for leisurely meals, for aimless walks near your apartment or in the countryside and for driving on back roads, to see where they go.

                                                                                    

For exploring the countryside we usually go a direction a day. Go east first, to the Luberon, made famous by Peter Mayle's book, A Year in Provence. The Luberon is a region of picturesque mountains and fertile fields, dotted with towns buillt on top of hills 400 years ago. The old stone houses have foewers in pots by the doors and lace on the windows, and lean over narrow stone streets. Menerbes, Lacoste, Bonnieux and Roussillon are charming and quaint. The Foret du Cedres offers picnic sites with stunning views of the valley. The late afternoon sun turns the walls of Gordes a golden brown hue that will take your breath away. Go over the mountain to Lourmarin for a tour of the chateau, and go home the other way. Don't worry about getting lost, some village will appear and delight you, and signs to Avignon are easy to find.

Go north one day, to the Chateauneuf du Papes wine growing region. Go to a vineyard and ask for a tasting; buy a bottle for dinner. Go on to Orange, to see the incredible Roman theater, still in use, and the arch of triumph Roman legions erected after conquering Gaul. Go on to Nyons for the finest olives and olive oil and georgeous mountains in the background. Then to Vaison la Romaine, which has both Roman and medieval buildings that are fun to explore.

Go west over the Rhone to the Saturday maket in Uzes, for honey, olives, bread, chevre cheese and so much more. Buy something for the picnic, and go on to the Pont du Gard, a spectacular Roman aquaduct over a river. Go on to Nimes, for wonderful shopping and more beautiful statues and parks.

Go south one day, to Arles and Aix-en-Provence, where the impressionists were captivated by the natural beauty and the unusual quality of light in Provence. See the fields for yourself, see the old street scenes they painted, and drive around Mont St. Victoire. Walk down the Cours Mirabeau in Aix, and see the fountains in the street, some of the most beautiful in France. Aix has wonderful shopping amid colorful streets that suddenly open onto small squares near old churces and medieval towers and arches. Outdoor restaurants are in every square, with tables under flowering arbors. Also south is Les Baux, a clifftop castle turned into quaint streets, and St. Remy de Provence, and much more.

On Sunday go to the market at L'Isle Sur la Sorgue, one of the best markets for antiques outside of Paris. Or instead go to the Mediterrean at Cassis, beyond Marseille. Have lunch at a table on the shore, while enjoying the French families taking their Sunday promenade. Then take a boat ride for an hour or two to see the nearby calanques, where the sea goes deep into narrow coves between tall cliffs on either side.

Back in Avignon, sit in the Place de l'Horloge for a kir or pastis, and watch the mime or the musicians. Look up at the figures in the tower of the Hotel de Ville. Enjoy the kids on the carousel. Look up at your balcony and have a small smile. Do Provence your way, fall in love with Provence your way, and carry it with you until you return. Your apartment will be waiting.